Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
